Installing Tektro Caliper Brakes

. 50% of the cost of the bicycle featured in this video was donated. In this tutorial we'll learn how to install Tektro Auriga Comp Disc Brakes.

Learn how to install Tektro Auriga Comp hydraulic disc brake rotor, levers and calipers. IMPORTANT: Nuts and bolts on your bike should always be tightened to. TEKTRO BRAKE SYSTEMS - Tutorial Guide, Auriga M290 Brake Bleed Instructional Video, Auriga M290 Soft Lever Fix, Disc Brake Pad Replacement, HDC-300 Bleed Instructions, Auriga and Draco Bleed Video.

We'll be covering other brands in future tutorials. What You'll Need For this job you will need 2, 4 and 5mm allen wrenches and a T25 torx wrench. Your bike will also need to have compatible disc brake mounts on both the hubs and frame and fork. Rotor Installation First you'll have to. Attach the rotor to the hub using the supplied bolts, making sure the rotation direction of the disc is installed in the same direction of the forward wheel movement. Tighten all 6 bolts with your T25 torx wrench until they are snug but not fully tightened. Then fully tighten the bolts in the following pattern until all are equally tightened to 4-6Nm.

Lever Installation Place the brake lever with the half clamp on the handlebars, with the hose facing toward the center of the handlebars. Tighten the brake lever clamp in the desired position with a 4mm allen bolt. Tighten these bolts to 5-7Nm. If needed, adjust the brake lever reach closer to the handle bars with a 2mm allen wrench.

Caliper Installation Before installing the disc caliper adapters, make sure your wheel axle is fully seated in the dropouts with the brake rotor on the caliper mounting side. Mount the adapter with the engraved F or R facing towards the axle as shown. Tighten the adapter bolts to 6-8Nm of torque. Make sure the pads are correctly positioned in the caliper, then place the caliper over the rotor with the bleed screw facing away from the wheel. Attach the caliper to the adapter using the supplied allen bolts. Loosely tighten the bolts so you can still move the caliper.

Pad Adjustment With the caliper mounting bolts loose, fully depress the brake lever and keep the lever depressed so the caliper correctly centers itself on the rotor. With the brake lever depressed, tighten the caliper mounting bolts to 6-8Nm. Use a to fasten the brake hose to ensure it is out of the way. In our next tutorial we will cover how to on this model. 05/10 I have this case where a front brake reopens itself only to one side, which causes the pad on the other side to rub against the wheel. I made sure it's properly screwed to the frame and the pads are at equal distance before braking, but as soon as I brake, the problem is back.

By the way, I have a doubt about this brake, because there's another problem which may explain the first: I can't pull the tensor down without creating a 90° angle in the cable (see 2nd photo, that's before using the tensor). I'm wondering if someone may have installed a rear brake at the front. 08/01 I recently purchased a used (nearly new) Sun Traditional adult Tricycle, 2016 model, and attempted to add on a brand new 3 speed conversion kit purchased through Amazon.

The kit is made by Sturmey Archer, and intended for Sun trikes like mine from 2015 and newer. As far as I can tell, I've installed the hub correctly. It shifts smoothly and runs well. However, the coaster brake makes a weird squealing noise when applied, and often sticks a bit. Here is a link to a short video, shot through the rear basket.

First i cycle through all gears, then demons. 07/03 I have Tektro R40 dual pivot caliper brakes (as provided on my 2011 Trek) Recently I decided to use a slightly wider tire (going from 23 to 25) When I try to mount the wheel, the gap between the brake pads is not large enough to accommodate the larger tire I could deflate the tire a bit and get it to slide through, but I would like to adjust the brake to accommodate the wider tire without doing so, so I could remove the front wheel for travelling I have googled adjusting this brake but am still confused with what has to be done. 05/19 I replaced a cheapo suspension fork with a Nashbar chromoly rigid fork and really like the way it feels.

Continuing with the upgrades I thought I'd replace the C-Star V brakes with some quality Shimano Deore V brakes BUT this wasn't as easy as I suspected. While my brake bosses are apparently the correct diameter the shouldered portion near the attachment point on the fork is too long or perhaps more precisely the Shimano brake arm is too shallow. Either way they don't fit. The brake arms will not go on the boss far enough before bottoming out to allow the spring tail to go into the hole.

05/03 This bicycle bought 2nd hand, no idea of its history. This particular caliper is front brake (Magura Louise brake handle!) Managed to figure out how to bleed both brakes. One Clara brake handle, one Louise!

Connect syringe with Magura oil on caliper. Open reservoir on handle, fill reservoir with syringe (if not already), slowly operate handle until reservoir near empty, then fill reservoir with syringe again. Bubbles will enter reservoir during this process to 'bleed' the system. Back brakes operating nice and sharp / firm after bleeding. 06/01 My bike was stolen and i recently got it back.

But some of the parts where switched out. They replaced my 27.5 inch forks with 26 inch shocks(pretty nice ones though) and my 27.5 single gear wheel with a 26 inch mtb wheel with a disc break disc on it.

Finding a 27.5 has not been easy. And my breaks wont reach the 26 inch rim. I was thinking about ringing up some kind of extension to mount the break pads on.

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Then a friend said he had a disc break set up. But i dont have the mount holes on my fram for it. Is there some kind of adapter i can mount on my frame to make it work with the dis. 10/20 I recently bought a used gt a avalanche with auriga comp brakes. I managed to bleed the none working back brake, but it is squealing badly. Maybe the pads got contaminated or just need replacing.

It struggles to brake as well. But that's not the problem. My front lever got dislodged and the washer that sits behind the reach pin ball is now located outside the 'catch washer', if I could call it that. Mineral oil also started leaking from the cylinder/piston. Is there a way I can fix this leak?

And how do I remove the catch washer to get the push rod back so the lever doesn't swing around?. 08/03 For a while my rear brake has been ineffective. I originally thought it was contaminated either the pads or the discs. Basically the lever has the be pulled all the way back to the bars to make anything work.

But at the start of a ride they squeal a lot. Usually by the end of a long downhill if I have had the brake on all the way down it will start working effectively but then when I start my next ride its back to being ineffective and squeals. I have replaced pads, rotors and bled the system twice. I have even cleaned both the pads and discs with brake cleaner and sa.

I have a 2013 defy 1 which has TK-R540 calipers (levers are 105's). I'm fairly new to riding road bikes (having ridden mountain bikes for about 20 years) and am finding that I have less confidence on the bike than I would on my mountain bike because of the brakes (I have hydraulic discs on my mtb). I've already changed the brake carts to koolstop salmon which improved the power of the brakes a lot. Being fairly new to road bikes, I ride on the hoods, even going downhill and so I want my braking to be as good as it can be from there (I know it will be better when I become more confident and start using the drops). My question is, is it worth upgrading the tektro calipers.

Would I notice much difference with something like 105 calipers (or others)? Is there anything I can do to improve the braking performance with the existing calipers? I rode the london to brighton ride last week and found myself not going above 30mph (even coming down ditchling), and I'd really like to be able to make the most of the defy. OnYourRight wrote:I have Tektro R510 callipers and Tektro P453 pads on my new 2012 Dawes Clubman (advertised as having Shimano BR-R450 brakes – a lie, like many of the other Dawes specification claims). They are absolutely dire. I’m honestly surprised bikes are allowed to be sold with brakes that work this badly.

Unfortunately the web is full of contradictory reports on all available road-bike brake callipers, pads, and levers, so I have no idea what to do. Some people report a massive improvement with Kool Stop Salmon pads, while someone else seemed unimpressed and quantified the improvement as “20%”.

I’m going to need far, far more than 20% improvement in braking force to make these Tektros worth keeping. A 100% improvement would be needed at the bare minimum, and preferably 2–3 × improvement From expereince I can safely say that the regular Tektro pads are awful and almost any upgrade of pad is likely to be worth it. They are bad in terms of stopping power and rim wear.

I would recommend the Kool Stop Salmon myself although Clarks and many other cheaper options would be better than the Tektro pads. The calipers themselves are pretty good in my expereince - not quite as sharp as 105 but not too far off. When I first got my bike I thought it was normal, as my friends always said, watch out for road bike brakes as they aren't as powerful as those on a MTB or hybrid. But still, one of the first runs I did I was coming up to a mini roundabout on a very slight downhill, musn't have been doing more than 10-12mph, and I just couldn't stop, I was pulling the brake levers so hard I thought I was going to break them and my hands hurt, I still ended up sailing through at about 5mph, thankfully nothing coming! So yes; bloody dangerous things tektro brakes! OnYourRight wrote:Thanks, gents.

I’m just wondering: which Kool Stop Salmon pads would fit my callipers? The pads that came with the bike are. Do I need to get cartridge-type pads from Shimano (or someone else) and then refit them with Kool Stop inserts? By the way, the Tektro R510 callipers on my bike have a specified reach of 41–56 mm, and the pads are very near the long end of that, especially at the front (I’m sure this doesn’t help the stopping power).

They have loads of pad clearance – might be why they’re specced on low-end bikes, since the rim could be 3 mm out of true, or quite flexible, and still clear the pads. I’d love to trade some of that excessive clearance for increased mechanical advantage, but perhaps I’ll try the Salmon pads first, especially since regular 105 or Ultegra brakes won’t reach the rim on my bike. I put these on my long drop tekro callipers with good results, I think you'll need a couple but you will have s spare pari of inserts: Shimano do make long drop brakes by the way, I think they are 650s. Anyway I was happy with my Tektro / Kools top combination whan set up right. I agree to thry this option first, and if you do ever buy new brakes you'll have some decent pads as spares - nothing lost.